The Inca Trail

The Inca trail is a mountainous jungle trek which leads to Machu Picchu. Lying nestled on a hilltop 7,000 feet above sea level on the Andean mountain range above the Urubamba River Valley, Machu Picchu is a majestic city set amongst rugged mountains and lush jungle vegetation. Undiscovered until 1911 it is now know as the "Lost Cities".

This is a truly magical experience, as you gaze out from the Funerary Rock Hut over temples, fields, terraces, baths, lost civilizations; it is like being taken to another time. The way everything blends so beautifully into the hillside itself is part of what makes this place so beautiful and magical.

Machu Picchu is an architectural wonder a tremendously fascinating site with palaces, temples, plazas, dwellings, steps and terraces. With its semi-tropical climate the mist that often hangs over the peaks only adds to its mystical, ethereal ambiance. It is amazing that the city was not ruined by the Spanish conquerors, during their effort to destroy any remnants of the Inca's culture. What is even more bizarre that a city as big as Machu Picchu can be totally forgotten.

There really is no other trek in the world with such a combination of natural beauty, history and sheer mystery which culminates at such an awe-inspiring destination? The Inca ruins along trial will only heighten your sense of anticipation as you approach what really is one of the archaeological wonders of the world - Machu Picchu. This Inca citadel is one of the world’s most famous sacred places. A marvel of human engineering melded perfectly into a natural setting of profound beauty, it’s no wonder that is has been adopted as a pilgrimage destination for spiritual seekers of all races and beliefs.

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Climate

The Inca trail is closed every February for cleaning, but apart from that you can trek at any time of year. The Andean weather can be quite unpredictable, despite the sharp divide between dry and wet seasons so be prepared for weather changes with layered clothing that you can add as the temperature drops and take off as it rises.

The dry season runs from April to October and the wet season from November to March. Nevertheless in the forested edges of the Amazon basin where Machu Picchu lies showers are not uncommon all year round. It is essential to pack good waterproofs in your day sack because chances are you will get wet!

The best time to trek is from May through to October and in the drier season but June – bear in mind that August is the high season and the Inca Trail is often full to capacity. So reservations MUST be made in advance.

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The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

In order to protect the Inca Trail, the government of Peru have limited access to the trek and made it compulsory to trek with a guide. To obtain a permit you must register in advance and obtain an entrance permit (approx 500 are issued per day). This can take 2- 3 days so plan in advance. If you are on a tight time limit it is important that you book well in advance as during peak season it can be impossible to trek on a given day or even a given week. Most travellers join a group which provides a package including 4 days trekking with a guide, porters, camping equipment and food. These tours also often obtain your permit for you which will save you a lot of hassle.

As well as the famous 45km four day trek along the Inca Trail there are three other treks which are offered over differing periods of time. Check which trek your operator will take you on.

The Short Inca Trail
For those that are wary of a 4 day trek and don’t want to camp out but would still like to experience some of the Inca Trail, this is a trek which can be completed in just one day. You start from a place called kilometre 104 (imaginatively named as it is 104 km along the railway track from Cusco) and climb to Machu Picchu; there is no need to be acclimatised for this trek.

Apu Salkantay 7 day trek
This is a more strenuous trek which extends the route to visit the sacred snow capped mountain Apu Salkantay. On the fourth day of the trek this route merges with the classic Inca Trail for the last three days to Machu Picchu.

Salkantay to Santa Teresa trek
Recently a third trek has become a popular alternative to the classic Inca trail. Usually taking place over 5 days this trip includes a visit to Machu Picchu on the final day. For the first three days you will take a fairly long hike through the mountains to the village of Santa Teresa. The next day involves a fairly short hike to the Vilcanota river where you will board a train for Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu where you will stay in a hotel. The final day is a day trip to Machu Picchu.

Whilst this is a great trek in its own right you are still day tripping to Machu Picchu and the trek to Santa Teresa just does not compare to the beauty and wonder found on the Inca Trail. Because this route has no restrictions imposed it is much easier to make this trek and it can usually be done at short notice. However be warned the lack of restrictions means that unlicensed tour operators and guides can get away with operating here so be careful when booking.

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Can I visit Machu Picchu without trekking the Inca Trail?

The simple answer is YES.....If you want to visit Machu Picchu but either don't have time or are unable to trek the Inca trail then you can take a day trip straight to Machu Picchu.

There are many day tours which do this and they should include the following:

  • Transport to and from Cusco train station.
  • Return train ticket from Cusco to Agua Calientes,
  • Return Bus to Machu Picchu
  • Entrance fees and a guided tour.

    Most day trippers take the 6am train from Cusco to Agueas Calientes which is located on the Urubamba river at the base of Machu Picchu. This is a good place to soak in the hot springs after your return tired and aching from your trek to Machu Picchu. If you stay here not only to you get to watch the sunset on this spectacular landscape once most of the tourists have headed home you can also see the ruins at dawn before the tourist train arrives at 10am. From the train Station you can get a bus up the steep mountain road, if you are uneasy about heights and more importantly edges of cliffs this is not the journey for you, with thirteen hair pin turns and a bus driver who has done it a thousand times, going up is not so bad but be prepared to come down again – it’s scary!

    Across the Central Plaza at the far end of Machu Picchu is the Sacred Rock a feature common to almost every Incan village. Before each village was built a sacred stone had to be dedicated to the building site. Machu Picchu’s sacred stone sits at the base of Huyayna Picchu (little peak). From here you can make a one – hour climb to the top of this little peak, once you reach the summit you will get an awesome view of the whole valley. There is a Gatekeeper’s shack where you cab sign in as proof you tackled the final steep ascent. If you are only visiting Machu Picchu for one day then you probably won’t have enough time to explore the ancient grounds and hike up Huyayana Picchu. Therefore it's a great idea to plan on absorbing the majestic beauty of the ruins for at least a couple of days.

    The Inca trail is the route that the Inca’s took to get to and from their city. By following the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu you will benefit from a much more interesting (and physically demanding) route. But you can be satisfied that you did it properly! Another big advantage of the trek over the one day tour of Machu Picchu is that those who take the Inca Trail arrive to Machu Picchu very early in the morning, before hundreds of tourists that take the train arrive to the site. Many visitors make hiking Huayna Picchu their final activity of exploration, leaving them with an unforgettable image and life-long memories. A perfect way to end a truly unforgettable journey.


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    When is the best time to visit?

    The Inca trail is closed every February for cleaning, but apart from that you can trek at any time of year. The best time to trek is probable from May through to October in the drier season but June – August is the high season and the Inca Trail is often full to capacity. So reservations MUST be made in advance.

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    Who can trek the Inca Trail?

    The trek is of moderate difficulty and anyone with reasonable fitness a positive attitude and enough determination should be able to manage the route. This is not to say that it is no challenge. Obviously the fitter you are the more you will enjoy the trek and be able to appreciate all there is to see en-route. It is advisable to do some extra exercise before your trip if you do not usually do so. The Inca Trail is 45km long and is a 4 day trek, on the second day the trek crosses "Dead Woman’s Pass" which is 4200m above sea level, so it is important to make sure that you are well acclimatised.

    Many people worry whether they will be able to cope physically but complete failure is rare and would usually only result from severe altitude sickness or a person lacking even a basic level of fitness. People of all ages (from teenager to pensioner) complete the trek and age itself is no barrier if you are positive minded and live an active lifestyle

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    Medical information

    Altitude can affect anyone at moderate to high altitude (generally anything over 3,000 metres). Altitude sickness is caused by the lack of oxygen which can be up to a third less than at sea level. No one understands why some people are affected and others not and age, level of fitness and strength is no indication of how well you will fare. Be aware that altitude sickness can be serious, so if your guide advises you to rest or descend, it is in your best interests to do as instructed. As the Inca Trail is a mixture of ascents and descents, altitude sickness is often short term and suffering from it does not necessarily mean you will be unable to complete the trek. Drugs are available to combat the effects of altitude sickness, for more information please contact your doctor.

    The best way to try and prevent altitude sickness is to acclimatise to the altitude, once in Cuzco the ancient capital of the Incas it is best to allow a day or two to acclimatize to the altitude to prevent altitude sickness or soroche. Have a cup of the traditional welcome cup of coca leaf tea to help you get used to the 3379 m. (11,150 ft) altitude.

    You'll also see vendors selling coca leaves, chewing them together is a century-old practice to make working in higher altitudes easier. The Incas used it; so do their modern day descendants and clever tourists.

    The most important thing about altitude sickness is to recognise the symptoms. You will not necessarily feel all of these but here is a guide for what to look out for:

    Hyperventilation, strange sleeping pattern, shortness of breath, increased urination, headache, dizziness, nausea, fatigue, loss of appetite, staggering walk. If you feel like this then DO NOT go any higher until you start to feel better and your body has acclimatized. Drink LOTS of Water and get some rest. You can take a mild analgesic (aspirin, ibuprofen) but do not take sleeping pills or any sort of narcotics. Don’t drink alcohol and if symptoms persist then seek medical help or return to a lower altitude.


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    How much does it cost?

    The price varies from £270 up to £1700 depending on the length of your trip. A few years ago you could join an organised group on a 4 day Inca Trail for about US $150. Since the government have intervened and cut out all the cheap unauthorised operators prices have risen to more like US $300 - $400 but it is not the tour operators who are making more money. In 2000 the trail entrance fee was $17 ( now $60) a return ticket on the train was $5 ( now $46 for a single ) and taxes were approx $4 per person. (Now closer to $40)

    However it has made things on the Inca Trail a lot better at the end of the day you get what you pay for. Porters are now paid a minimum wage and have weight restrictions on what they can carry resulting in a higher trekker to porter ratio. Tour operators also have to take communal dining and kitchen tents and only qualified guides are allowed to lead a group. Since the number of trekkers is also limited there is a better quality service and less people to spoil your magnificent view.

    The trek prices do not include tips for the porters and the guide, which is customary to pay at the end of the trek.The main difference between the various Inca Trail services are the number of people in the group, the level of comfort that you can expect, the quality of the guide, food and camping equipment and whether the company will actually guarantee their departure date, even if they can't find anyone else to fill up the group and most importantly what they include in the price.

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    General information

    Concern about overuse leading to erosion has led the Peruvian government to place a limit on the number of people who may hike this trail per season, and to sharply limit the companies that can provide guides. As a result, advance booking is mandatory. A maximum of 500 people, including guides and porters, are permitted to begin the Trail every day. As a result, the high season books out very quickly.

    Note that the Trail is closed every February for cleaning. Although the trek is rated as moderate, we strongly suggest spending at least two nights before the start of the trek to totally adjust to the altitude. Altitude at the Inca Trail: Minimum 2430m / Maximum 4200m. Keep hydrated. Drink plenty of water that also helps to acclimatize to the altitude.

    There are toilet blocks (with ceramic squat toilets) dotted along the trail. These little blocks are usually well hidden from view and are surprisingly clean. Between these toilet blocks the only choice is to go ‘behind a bush’! Lunch stops are often made in the vicinity of a toilet block. Taking your own toilet roll is essential but it is important not to flush toilet paper away

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    People

    Peru is one of only three countries in Latin America whose largest segment of the population is comprised of Amerindians (40%) (Native American ancestry), 37 % are Mestizos ( mixed European and American ancestry) about 17% Europeans ( mostly Spaniards, Italians and Germans) and only 2- 3% are of African descent

    The two major indigenous ethnic groups are the various Quechua-speaking populations, followed closely by the Aymará, as well as several dozen small Amerindian ethnic tribes scattered throughout the country beyond the Andes Mountains and in the Amazon basin. Quechua and Aymara are still spoken by a large proportion of Amerindians.

    In the lowlands of the Amazon Basin there is a population of over one million indigenous Amazonians living in thousands of square miles of Jungle and 3 main cities (Iquitos, Puerto Maldonado and Pucallpa). The area they inhabit is larger than Texas and Virginia put together.

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    Flora and fauna


    The Inca Trail is Peru's best known hike, combining a stunning mix of Inca ruins, mountain scenery, lush cloud-forest and rich subtropical jungle. Passing over the Andes and through the Amazon there is a huge diversity of wildlife. The Machu Picchu Historic centre has recorded over 250 species of orchid as well as over 420 species of bird which nest in the area making it a premier destination for bird watchers. As many of the birds are endemic, this really is a unique place.

    Some of the most commonly cited birds are the White-Tipped Swift, the Versicoloured Barbet, and the Collared Trogon as well as hummingbirds, waterfowl and the almighty Andean Condor. You might even see the spectacled bear - a shy, herbivorous animal that is extremely rare and close to extinction.

    Machu Picchu is the most protected sanctuary in Peru so your adventure wouldn’t be complete encountering the various animals that inhabit the area. One of the rather unique creatures you will see is the Alpaca. It’s easy to mistake an alpaca for a llama; they are generally smaller than Llama’s but the key difference between the two lies in the quality of their wool. Alpaca fibres are very soft and warm making their fleece an ideal choice for clothing material. They also have the widest variety of colours in their fleece with over 22. The Incans made use of their wool to create beautifully woven and colourful clothing.

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    Kit list – The Inca Trail

    • Passport – photocopy is not sufficient
    • Sleeping Bag (can hire)
    • Silk Sleeping Bag Liner (useful if hiring sleeping bag)
    • Hiking Boots and Trainers
    • Long Trousers
    • Long sleeved Shirts
    • T-Shirts
    • Sweaters
    • Thick Jacket
    • Water Proofs
    • Camera
    • Insect repellent
    • Sun block
    • Torch
    • Knife
    • Rucksack
    • Day Sack

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    Talking to the locals


    A bit of essential Spanish……..

    Hello Hola
    Thank You Adios/Ciao
    Good morning Buenos dias
    Good Afternoon Buenos tardes
    Good Evening Buenos noches
    Yes Si
    No no
    Please Por favor
    I'm Tired soy muy cansado
    Another beer please Una Cerveza mas por favour

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    History of the Inca Trail


    Machu Picchu which means old mountain in Quechua is an extraordinarily well preserved Incan Citadel located about 2,350m above the Urubamba Valley in Peru and 70 Km Northwest of Cusco. It is estimated that Machu Picchu had a population of approx 1200 people.

    It was rediscovered by Archaeologist Hiram Bingham in 1911, and brought back in to public focus when he published his bestselling book on it. Bingham removed hundreds of Incan Artefacts from the site which the Peruvian government are battling to get returned. The city covers an area approx one square kilometre and stands in the meeting point of the Andes and the Amazon River; A magical region according to the Incas. The Inca trail is just a small part of the Incan highway system that was built in order to integrate the four regions of the Tawantinsuyo Empire. It leads here to the magical city of Machu Picchu.


    Machu Picchu is separated into three areas - agricultural, urban, and religious - the structures are arranged so that the function of the buildings matches the form of their surroundings. The agricultural terracing and aqueducts take advantage of the natural slopes; the lower areas contain buildings occupied by farmers and teachers, and the most important religious areas are located at the crest of the hill, overlooking the lush Urubamba Valley thousands of feet below.
    To this day archaeologists have not uncovered the history and purpose of this city of stone. Perhaps, we never discover the mystery of Machu Picchu , so far, there are only hypothesis and conjectures. There is one school of thought which believes that it may have been an advance settlement for planned further expansions by the Incas. Others believe Machu Picchu have been a monastery where young girls (acllas) were trained to serve the Inca and the Willac Uno (HIgh Priest). Support for this theory comes from the fact that of the 135 bodies discovered while exploring the site, 109 were female. There is another theory that it was a getaway retreat for the Incan rulers.

    Whatever the secrets of Machu Picchu the only way to really imagine this magical place is to go and see it for yourself it really is one of those things you really must do before you die.

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