Introductory Mountaineering - the Southern Alps

A mountaineering challenge for novices taking in three alpine summits with a combined altitude of nearly 10,000m

A mountaineering challenge for novices taking in three alpine summits with a combined altitude of nearly 10,000m

FIXED DATES: 26 June - 3 July 2011 - ideal for individuals looking to join a group (minimum group size of 6).

OTHER DATES: Any week between May and September for groups of two or more booking together.

Mountaineering and Alpinism week taking in three of the big alpine peaks of the Southern French Alps!

If you are a passionate walker or climber and love the mountains, you will find it difficult to resist the lure of the big Alpine peaks and will love this week!

Get away from the crowds and soak up the charm and ambiance of the Southern French Alps.

Please have a look at the itinerary below for more detail.

This is a progressive week of mountaineering and alpinism taking in three spectacular peaks of the Southern French Alps including L'Obiou 2789m (Grade: facile / easy) a dramatic walking summit with some exposed and technical sections, Les Rouies 3589m (Grade: facile / easy) a beautiful glacier crossing and short scramble and either the Sirac 3444m (Grade: peu difficile / bit more difficult) a glacier crossing and climbing / scrambling (grade 4a /b) or L'Olan 3564m (Grade: peu difficile / bit more difficult) one of the famous Ecrins and Oisans peaks with a glacier crossing with climbing / scrambling (grade 4a / b).

Two of the summits involve glacier crossings and scrambling / climbing in high mountain conditions and all the peaks have exposed sections!

Over the course of the week, you will learn essential rope and safety techniques for moving together and climbing in the high mountains and across glaciers. You will learn how to walk and climb in crampons and use ice axes and how to climb in big boots! You will also learn how to pace yourself at altitude.

The area we use for our introductory mountaineering trip is away from the main tourist areas so you won't be sharing your experiences with 100ds of other mountaineers and should get a real taste of the magic of mountaineering in the Alps!

The area is rich in flora and fauna with golden eagles, chamois, ibex, marmots and there are even wolves in the vicinity. For flower fans, look out for the orange lily, the 60 plus species of orchids including the lady's slipper and countless others.

No previous experience of mountaineering or alpinism is necessary but a good level of walking fitness and some scrambling or climbing experience is required.

A real taste of classic mountaineering and alpinism off the beaten track!

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Itinerary / Highlights

Get away from the crowds and explore the peaks of the Southern French Alps!

This is a progressive itinerary taking in three stunning summits: L'Obiou 2789m, a dramatic walking summit with some exposed and technical sections, Les Rouies 3589m, a beautiful glacier crossing and short scramble, and either the Sirac 3444m, a glacier crossing and climbing / scrambling or L'Olan 3564m, a glacier crossing with climbing / scrambling.

Where possible we will stick to this itinerary as it is progressive and is a great introduction to real mountaineering off the tourist track!

However, it is the mountains and although we do have the best sun record in the Alps, we may have to alter the itinerary during the week to take account of the weather and conditions.

We also like to remain flexible and are open to suggestions and ideas from you if you have a particular skill you want to learn or a summit you want to do.

DAY 1 - ARRIVE

Settle in to your accommodation, have a drink and wander around the area.

In both the Val Des Sources and Le Casset Refuge, you are surrounded by 3000m plus peaks, including the Olan, Les Rouies and the Sirac, some of which you will be climbing this week!

Once everyone has arrived, we'll come and say hello, welcome you to the area and go through the itinerary. You will also meet your guide and get your equipment for the week.

Then you can settle down to a hearty evening meal before a good night's sleep in preparation for tomorrow!

DAY 2 - ASCENT OF OBIOU

The Obiou is the highest mountain of the Devoluy massif and is a spectacular and dramatic trekking peak.

This is a limestone mountain and where there is limestone there are usually caves!! Here is no exception and it is worth bringing your headtorch as there is an ice cave just under the col de L'Obiou. Inside the cave you can go right underground where you will find a wall of transparent ice - it is magnificent!

On the route, there are several exposed and 'airy' sections where you will need to take care not to slip and the guide may decide to rope up for security.

Starting altitude: 1562m

Summit altitude: 2789m

Ascent: 1227m

Average walking time: 6 - 7 hours (4 - 5 hours up and 2 hours down)

At the start of the walk you get your first taste of the 'airy' ambiance of this mountain with a little exposed section.

After that there are two choices of itineraries, which the guide will explain to you on the day and you can decide which way you want to go. Either you can follow the GR route which contours around to the right or you can go straight up through the rocks.

The two options meet up at about 2000m where the GR route continues to wind it's way through an apparent wall of stone up to the col de l'Obiou. Care is needed throughout this section as a slip could be very dangerous. It is necessary to scramble in certain places but otherwise the path follows a 'staircase' up. The views from this section are incredible - it has to be said!

At the col you follow the shoulder up to the top. This section is very exposed and captures the real high mountain 'airy' character of this mountain.

Enjoy spectacular views over the Ecrins National Park, the Champsaur, Valgaudemar and Devoluy valleys and see if you can spot your next objectives for the week!

DAY 3 - WALK UP TO PIGEONNIER REFUGE

This is a beautiful and easy walk up to the refuge where you will spend the night before attacking the summit of Les Rouies tomorrow.

You can walk up directly in about 2 1/2 hours or you can take in the Lac du Lauzon on your way which is a pretty alpine lake with a stunning mountain backdrop.

Once you get to the refuge you can either relax and enjoy the ambiance or go for a little scramble up in the rocks above the refuge. Your guide will be with you and will be up for a bit of rope work practice, wildlife spotting or anything else you fancy doing.

The area is a great spot for ibex and other wild mountain animals so it is worth making the most of the local knowledge of your guide and getting some good wildlife shots to take home with you!!

George, the guardian who runs the refuge is a real character and will definitely make you welcome. It is one of the best refuges in the area! Just remember you have to get up at 4 in the morning before you get too carried away having a good time though!

DAY 4 - ASCENT OF LES ROUIES

Les Rouies is one of the easiest of the big summits of the dramatic Ecrins massif but is not to be underestimated!

It is a long day with a traverse over a glacier and a steep little scramble at the end. If you have never walked on a glacier before this is an excellent introduction.

The rock is metamorphic gneiss rock and has a very different look, feel and vegetation to L'Obiou.

It is situated on the end of a chain of peaks forming the cirque which bars the end of the Valgaudemar valley (the cirque from north to south: Les Rouies, Mont Gioberney, Les Bans, Pic Jocelme, Pic de Bonvoisin, Pointe Verdonne and le Sirac).

Have a look at our Les Rouies photo album on flickr.

Starting altitude: 2423m

Summit altitude: 3589m

Ascent: 1166m

Average walking time: 8 - 9 hours (5 - 6 hours up and 3 - 4 hours down)

George will wake you up at 4 am where you will experience the classic french mountain refuge breakfast (bread - usually a bit stale, jam or honey and hot chocolate!). It is advisable to bring some snacks with you as it's a long time from now until your lunch at 13:00!

It is at this point as you are preparing your sacks in the dark, that you will have a 'what on earth am I doing here?' moment! Don't worry it's worth it!

After a rocky traverse in the dark you will arrive at the edge of the glacier - usually just as the sun comes up so you can see what you are doing to put your crampons on!

After an explanation of how to use the equipment you will begin the climb up through the couloir to the top of the glacier, which is pretty spectacular in itself.

Once you arrive on top you will be rewarded with amazing views and will start to feel the heat of the sun - truly beautiful! Here you will rope up to traverse the glacier which takes you up to the summit.

The last climb is pretty steep and mixed snow and rock but is is worth the effort to get to the top, where you will really feel on top of the world.

From the summit you get an excellent view of the interior of the Ecrins massif including the Barre des Ecrins and La Meije and of the summit of L'Olan just next door - possibly your next challenge!

Then you come down the way you came up - although it goes much quicker and the going down technique and views are very different from the going up ones so you don't feel like you are retracing your steps.

At the refuge George will greet you with a well deserved hot meal before you make your way down to the car park and back to your accommodation.

DAY 5 - REST / CHOICE DAY

This is your opportunity to relax and refuel after your exertions in the mountains, before tackling your biggest challenge of L'Olan or Sirac tomorrow.

If you are based at Les Val des Sources you have the swimming pool, table tennis and some beautiful relaxing walks straight from your door.

From le Casset, you have a short walk to get into the village of La Chapelle, where there are a couple of shops and bars to mooch around and of course you have the river of the Severaisse if you fancy a cool dip - just be careful to find a spot without fast flowing rapids!

If you want to do something more sportif, just let us know. We can arrange rafting or high ropes adventure - both situated in the village of La Chapelle. Or we can arrange another day with your guide to try a multi pitch climbing route, a via ferrata or a day practicing rope work and alpinsm skills somewhere pretty!

Please note any organised activity including the day with the guide arranged for this day are not included in the price.

DAY 6 - WALK UP TO REFUGE

There are two choices of summits for today and tomorrow; the Olan or Sirac, equally spectacular and dramatic.

There are then several routes up either with varying grades of climbing. However, we are looking at the classic routes for this trip. They are both 'peu difficile' in grade which means there is some technical climbing and more complicated glaciers so slightly more difficult than Les Rouies. It is really a personal choice and the guide will be able to give you more information about the routes and current conditions to help you decide which peak to do.

THE SIRAC

The walk in to the Sirac is up to the refuge Vallonpierre at 2271m from the Gioberney at 1642m. This is a newly refurbished club alpine francais refuge situated in a little hanging valley with a small lake.
There are two main ways to walk in - one direct route which is about 3 - 4 hours walking and quite steep or a traverse around under the glacier with the possibility to stop off for a drink at La Chabourneo refuge. This is slightly longer and you cut off half of the steep direct ascent so is slightly easier walking.

Both routes take you up a real classic Alpine valley with the summit of La Sirac dramatically outlined above you.

Again your guide will be with you so if you want to do some rope work or scrambling on your way up or at the refuge, that's no problem. The Vallonpierre refuge is a good place for chamois so again make the most of your guide's local knowledge and find out where they are hiding!

L'OLAN

The walk into L'Olan is straight up from la Chapelle at 1101m to the Refuge de l'Olan at 2344m.

It is a long, steep and wild walk in through alpine meadows, rocky outcrops and slabs. The path is easy to follow and there are lots of wildlife spotting opportunities along the way.

The refuge itself is a real classic alpine refuge from the 60s - basic but clean and situated on a pretty alpine plateau surrounded by slabs and rock.

As the refuge is slightly off the beaten track and only really used by climbers and mountaineers, rather than families and ramblers, it has a real mountaineer alpinist atmosphere! As it should really with one of the prestigious summits of the Southern French Alps just behind it!

With nothing else in the way of civilisation anywhere near you and the old style refuge ambiance it is easy to imagine what it was like for the pioneers of Alpinism as they explored these mountains.

Your guide will be with you so if you fancy a bit of local scrambling, climbing or wild life spotting to while away the afternoon at the refuge, go for it!

DAY 7 - ASCENT OF L'OLAN or SIRAC

SIRAC

The Sirac is the other end of the cirque of mountains heading up the valley of Valgaudemar from Les Rouies.

It is a magnificent mountain to look at with it's corrugated ridge and is equally magnificent to climb.

Starting altitude: 2271m

Summit altitude: 3440m

Ascent: 1169m

Average walking time: 7 - 8 hours (5 - 6 hours up and 3 - 4 hours down)

Alpinism Grade:PD - peu difficile

Another early morning alpine start from the refuge Vallonpierre.

As you are stumbling over the rocks in the dark on your way towards the start of the route and wondering how on earth the guide knows which way to go, you may again experience that 'what on earth am I doing here' feeling but this time you'll know it is going to be worth it. The start of another adventure in the mountains!

The traverse over rough terrain finally ends at a wall of solid rock! This is where your climb really starts. The first part is a scramble up a pretty cliff - a pleasure to climb. The cliff then gives way to a section of large blocks separated by short scrambles and climbs.

Then you arrive at a reasonably steep but small glacier which you cross to gain access to the next part of the route. Sometimes the bergschrund between the glacier and the main face can be quite difficult to negotiate but your guide will give you good advice and protect you.

The route is varied and interesting - a mix between scrambling and climbing (grade 4a - 4b) over short sections. It is made particularly interesting in big boots but the rock is good and there are big foot and hand holds.

The last section is a dramatic, very exposed and airy ridge which you follow up to the summit. This gives you absolutely splendid views but you are better off concentrating on your scrambling before getting too carried away in that high mountain bliss. Wait til you get to the summit before you really relax and drink in the ambiance in relative safety!!

Again the way down is the same but feels totally different coming down than it felt going up!

A hot lunch will be waiting for you at the Vallonpierre before you finish your journey back down to the valley.

L'OLAN

The Olan is one of the most prestigious mountains of the Oisans and the Ecrins thanks to its famous north face, over 1200m of pure cliff face with some of the most difficult climbing routes in the Alps

We are taking the south facing which is slightly less intimidating but still 6 - 700 metres of climbing and scrambling over excellent gneiss (metamorphic) rock in a real high mountain atmosphere with a very exposed ridge scramble / climb at the end - a joy to climb.

Starting altitude: 2344m

Summit altitude: 3564m

Ascent: 1220m

Average walking time: 8 - 9 hours (5 - 6 hours up and 3 - 4 hours down)

Alpinism Grade: PD - peu difficile

Another alpine start at 4 in the morning and traverse in the dark over mixed terrain until you reach the glacier.

The glacier is not too technical at the start, however becomes quite steep at the end and there are some crevasses so care is needed.

You leave the glacier by a 40 m long climbing pitch (grade 3) which brings you up to a nice little terrace which you use to traverse the face. This brings you to the bottom of a couloir which you climb up to get to the east ridge.

This is the scariest part of the route - it is an extremely exposed ridge which peaks and troughs along to the summit - some scrambling and some climbing (grade 3). The final part gives you some respite from the exposure with a chimney to work your way up and then on to a nice slab to the north summit! After this significant mental and technical challenge, the breathtaking views are even more magical!

There are a few choices for coming back down - you can either come back down the way you came or take the col between the north summit and the central summit which leads you down a snowy couloir (about 150m). When this becomes steep you go east along a little path until you rejoin the voie normale that you came up on.

DAY 8 - BACK TO CIVILISATION

This is the sad day where we say goodbye. Hopefully you will leave with some fantastic memories of your adventures in the Southern French Alps and will be back to try some more challenges in the future.

Other Details

Accommodation Details

For the two big summits, you will be staying in Club Alpine Francais mountain refuges.

For the rest of the trip you can either have a bit of luxury and stay in the The Hotel Les Val Des Sources, a great little hotel situated in the heart of the Valgaudemar valley with swimming pool, steam room and food to die for!

OR

if you want to keep the costs down a bit you can stay in the Gioberney - a fantastic hotel / refuge situated in the heart of the valley of Valgaudemar. The sleeping arrangements are in dormitories or for a small supplement twin or double rooms are available. In the building there is an excellent restaurant and a bar. The refuge has a great sun terrace with spectacular views and a friendly fun atmosphere. The food is excellent.

All your accommodation is half board and you have picnic or hot lunches for the days you are climbing.

Departure Dates, Options & Prices

FIXED DATES: 26 June - 3 July 2011 - ideal for individuals looking to join a group (minimum group size of 6).

Price based on staying in Gioberney Refuge: 1255€ per person

Price based n staying in Val des Sources Hotel: 1589€ per person

OTHER DATES: Any week between May and September for groups of two or more booking together.
Prices based on staying in the Val Des Sources Hotel
2 - 3 people 2132€
4 - 5 people 1761€
6 - 8 people 1589€

Prices based on staying in the Gioberney Refuge
2 - 3 people 1761€
4 - 5 people 1397€
6 - 8 people 1255€

Please note that all prices are in Euros. We can accept both pounds sterling and Euro payments.

Prices are per person and are based on two people sharing a room in Les Val des Sources or dormitory style accommodation in the Gioberney. Please note that everyone will be in dormitory style accommodation for the two nights in high mountain refuges.

If you are an individual booking on to the fixed dates holiday on the 26 June - 3 July 2011 the price is subject to a minimum group size of 6 If for any reason you book and there aren't enough people to fill the trip, you will be offered the choice of canceling your holiday with a full refund or paying a surcharge equivalent to your group size.

0845 009 8501