The Road to Shandur
A road trip through the mountains of Pakistan including 2 days at the world's highest polo tournament.
When we plan our trips each year this is the first one we start with and I am getting excited just writing this. We start in Islamabad and take a scenic flight across the Hindu Kush mountains to the ancient kingdom of Chitral to spend 3 days with the pagan Kalasha people. From there we load up with tents, food and expectation and head to the Shandur Pass. By the time we arrive the Shandur polo festival will be in full swing and a 3800m high mountain pass will be a tented town of tea shops, samosa sellers and revellers all there to watch two rival valleys play frontier polo in a mountain setting that is probably unsurpassed in all sports. After that we head to the legendary Hunza valley to celebrate the Aga Khans birthday with the local Ismaili population before skipping back to Islamabad on the Karakorum highway.
Itinerary / Highlights
Day 1 – Islamabad - Taxila - IslamabadAfter meeting you from the airport and checking in to your Guesthouse, we will travel from Islamabad to Taxila. At Taxila we will be able to visit the museum and a few of the remaining sites of the Ghandaran Buddhist culture that flourished in this region before the introduction of Islam in the 8th century.
Transport: Minibus or private car.
Accommodation: Discrete Guesthouse.
Day 2 – Fly from Islamabad to Chitral
We will catch a scenic flight over the heart of the Hindu Kush to the remote Chitral valley. Chitral is cut off from the rest of Pakistan for 6 months of the year and feels very different from the Punjabi plains of Islamabad. The afternoon in Chitral can be spent visiting the fort, Shahi Mosque and the local bazaar.
Transport: Plane
Accommodation: Hotel
Days 3-5 – Kalasha Valleys
We will spend 3 nights in the Rumbour and Bumboret valleys staying with locally owned guesthouses, eating locally grown food and drinking the locally made wine. The days will be spent relaxing, walking or jeeping to the Kalasha and Nuristani villages of these isolated valleys. We will ensure that the accommodation is with Kalasha families so that you get a chance to immerse yourself in the unique culture of the Kalasha.
Transport: Walking or Jeep
Accommodation: Locally run guesthouses. They are simple. However, the hospitality and location easily make up for the lack of mod cons. We ensure that all of our accommodation in the Kalasha valleys are owned by Kalasha people.
Note: All meals are included in the Kalasha valleys.
Day 6 – Kalasha Valleys - Chitral - Mastuj
The road between Chitral and Gilgit crosses through the Hindu Kush. The mountains get bigger and the road condition deteriorates. We break the journey in Mastuj, which is less of a town than a collection of small holdings linked by winding lanes. It is a perfect place to do nothing except drink in the views.
Transport: Jeep
Accommodation: Guesthouse
Day 7 – Mastuj – Shandur Pass
An early start will ensure that we get to the Shandur Pass in time for the 'D' game of the polo tournament in the afternoon. There will then be time to either take a walk to the lake at the pass or just wander the tented bazaar. In the evening there is music, dancing and optional drinking of locally made wine.
Transport: Jeep
Accommodation: Tent. Don't worry though, we will ensure that it is comfy and we will be camping in the VIP section. We'll bring our own cook and plenty of food, although there are plenty of options in the tented village.
Note: Meals are included at the Shandur festival
Day 8 – Shandur Pass
The festivities continue at the festival. The second day includes the ‘C’ and ‘B’ games. The standard of polo and intensity of the competition increases. In the past we have given our guests access to meet the Captains of the teams and other local royalty and dignitaries. The evening sees the climax of the festivities with music and dancing. Both organized and improvised around campfires.
Day 9 - Shandur – Phandur
After watching the 'A' game in the morning we will head towards Gilgit. Rather than sit in the traffic jam with the rest of the spectators leaving the polo, we break the journey at Phandur to relax by the lake.
Transport: Jeep
Accommodation: PTDC Hotel
Day 10 – Phandur – Gilgit - Hunza
We join the famous Karakorum highway at Gilgit and head to the fabled Hunza valley. We then use Hunza as a base for exploring the surrounding area.
Transport: Jeep
Accommodation: At the eagles nest in Karimabad. It is said of houses in Hunza that, "If it has a roof it has a view". So, whilst it is hard to find a place in Hunza that does not have a great view, the Eagles Nest undoubtedly has the best.
Day 11-13 – Around Hunza
We have three days of exciting trips planned in Hunza. However, you may want to do nothing more than sit under an apricot tree, watch the mountains and read a book.
On one day, we will journey an hour or so up the Karakorum Highway to Passu and take a walk on the wild side crossing the raging Hunza River and back using rope bridges. The second day we will visit the ancient forts of Baltit and Altit, the traditional residences of the Mirs of Hunza, we will follow this by a walk on the high irrigation channels cut into the rock, giving tremendous views and an insight into how the people of Hunza created their Shangri-La. For the fit, on the final day, we will walk up to Ultar meadow and meet with the shepherds herding their flock on the high pastures.
In the past our guests have also visited the Emerald mine of a friend of ours and panned for gold in the Hunza River.
The second day in Hunza also coincides with the birthday of the Aga Khan, the spiritual leader of the Ismaili Muslims who live in the valley. This is celebrated by music, dancing and rolling burning tyres down the mountains.
Transport: Cars as necessary.
Accommodation: Hotel
Day 14 - Hunza – Chilas
Between Hunza and Chilas we pass the point were the 3 great mountain ranges meet. After passing between the Himalayas, the Karakorum and the Hindu Kush the Karakorum Highway cuts through deep valleys on to Chilas were we break the journey towards Islamabad.
Transport: Minibus
Accommodation: PTDC Hotel
Day 15 - Chilas – Islamabad
Another day spent enjoying the scenery from the Karakorum Highway. We will arrive in Islamabad early enough for a final meal together.
Transport: Minibus
Accommodation: Discrete Guesthouse
Day 16 - Islamabad - Home
Transfer to airport and fly home.