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Oaxaca to the Pacific Coast |
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by Alex Wilson |
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Some of the main attractions here are the huge markets, some older and more local and some more touristy. I was a bit bemused by some of it; I couldn't work out how they manage to sustain themselves, especially the poor 80 yr old women carrying baskets half the size of their body full of nuts, seeds and dead crickets. There seemed to be about 100 of them in one small hall, and I didn't once see anyone buy anything off them (especially the crickets!). I am surprised they keep doing it at their age. I don't think its rocket science to presume they don't get the state pension that my Nan gets! We spent 3 days here in total, and this is quite long as there isn't actually a great deal to do, the action is centred on the main Zocalo, atmosphere and mariachi bands. The town oozes character, with wrought iron traffic lights and quaint posadas with large courtyards, like the one we stayed in. The buildings are all low-rise and really colourful.
Next we headed on the bus down to Puerto Escondido, an old fishing village (aren't they all, I am sure Dubai has also been called that - now look at it!). This has turned into a huge surfer's retreat as the waves are incredible here. The first day we explored some of the bays around the main town like Puerto Angelito and Playa Manzil but the same day we arrived Tropical Storm Olida decided to join us too. Luckily this storm was gathering pace offshore and never made it to land. We were a little disappointed actually as we wanted to see some action, instead it just rained like it does in UK, a dreary endless slurry of rain, for 2 days. Hmph.
We travelled on to Mezunte and Zipolite on the last day of the rain, two smaller resorts along the coast. The beaches here were great and both were more hippy-like retreats and way cheaper. We grabbed some great rustic cabanas, one stilted and comprising one bed and a mosquito net facing the ocean. In Mezunte we also trekked through dense foliage to get to Punto Cometa, a lush headland with panoramic views either side.
I would point out here that if Dom loves travelling with me it's less for the scintillating conversation than the fact that I create a brilliant decoy for mosquitoes. Our current tally is Alex - 45, Dom - 3. Dom blames it on the fact that I avoid spicy food and instead gorge on sugar. He might be right. Either way my body has turned into some kind of map of the solar system. I'm definitely investing in some stronger repellents pronto.
People ask about the food but basically the Mexicans have a very clever way of re-packaging food that contains one or all of: tortillas, beans, avocado, tomatoes, and cheese. Chilaquiles, Tortaquillas, Tortas, Quesadillas...I could go on... its good stuff though in moderation. Tonight we splurged the most so far in an all you can eat steak buffet. I got through a rib-eye, t-bone, sirloin and New Yorker for six quid. Plus complimentary stretcher at the door. Well worth it!
So early this morning bleary-eyed from an overnight 12hr trip up from Zipolite we arrived in San Cristobel de las Casas, another picturesque provincial town. The architecture here is even lower-rise (I can't help wondering if the next town will have buildings the size of matchboxes, in neon, just to outdo the others!!!). We love it here already, more backpackers, which means more bars. Not that we can afford to go crazy. We have adopted a tramp-like habit of purchasing tins from the supermarket and sitting in the square. If only people chucked coins at us though to add to our budget!
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