Rock Climbing Travel Guide

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Origin


Climbing grew out of the techniques practiced by mountaineers in preparation for expeditions. By the early 1920s, rock climbing began to develop into a sport in its own right, most prominently in the US.

After the 1950s, a grading system for new areas was introduced as a guide for climbers. This helped develop climbing into a recognised sport, separate from purely a mountaineering technique; climbers could then measure their development by attempting more demanding grades.

As the climbs became more challenging, new styles and techniques emerged. The growing popularity of the sport brought funding to build indoor climbing centres, so climbing could be practiced all-year-round, and in many more locations.


Get Started


Thanks to the number of indoor walls and centres, climbing is not only limited to rural areas. Getting on a course for an hour can give you an introduction to the sport; these can be run outdoors too.

A good starter course for someone serious about climbing is the SPA (single pitch award). This will teach you to lead your own climbs and set up routes without the supervision of a trained climber. You can find out more and register via Mountain Leader Training England.


Equipment


There is a catalogue of equipment needed to go climbing and kit comes in all varieties. Gadgets and tools are frequently redesigned so they are more reliable, durable and better suited to the job.

For beginners, you can get away with only bringing along a harness and climbing boots, more often than not the course can supply equipment, ensure these are safe and in good order. Be sure to ask for help and get advice when buying your first equipment.

As you develop more of a taste for the sport it might be worth investing in:

Chalk
Chalk bag
Karabiner
Belay Device
Finger tape
Helmet
Rope
Nuts
Bouldering Mat
Wires
Slings
Quick Draws
Cams

If climbing becomes a hobby, you can think about investing more money. Equipment is expensive, but it's not worth saving on cheap rope or slings, there life expectancy might be considerably shorter and you’ll find yourself frequently replacing them. This gear suffers a lot of wear and tear, and it is certainly not worth finding out you should have bought the other rope, half way up a 70ft rock face!


Style


Different styles and types of climbing depend upon the rock, or the route you follow.

Top Roping
Using a single rope through an anchor at the top of the route, the belayer is attached to one end of the rope, which is fed through the anchor and the climber attached to the other end.

Lead
The first climber sets the rope as they climb, securing themselves to the wall with various anchors. Once at the top they can set up a top rope or belay from above to the climber below, allowing for a multi-pitch climb.

Traditional (Trad)
The lead climber has to fix anchors to the wall using nuts, quick draws and cams for the first ascent.

Sport
This is a faster approach to climbing, bolts are fixed into the wall in a set route, the lead climber can ascend without the need to attach quick draws, cams and nuts.

Multi-pitch
Ascending a wall in several sections, this is a way of reaching high routes. Instead of buying hundreds of feet of rope which is very heavy, it is easier to keep anchoring from several points.

Bouldering
Climbing without the aid of a rope, this helps practice skills and techniques. It’s important to remember this shouldn’t be attempted on higher routes. Most bouldering routes are a traverse and at low height.

Soloing
Climbing unaccompanied, not to be undertaken by novices.


Lingo


Calls

That’s me – The climber calls to the belayer to indicate enough slack rope has been pulled in.
Climb when ready – The belayer calls the climber to indicate they are ready for the climber to begin.
Climbing – In reply to the belayer to let them know when they will climb.
Ok/Climb on – the belayer has heard the climber.
Take in – When there is too much slack rope on the line.
Taking in – The belayer pulls in excess rope to get tension on the line.
Slack – Need more slack on the rope in order to tackle a move.
Tight – Need more tension on the rope, climber is about to attempt an awkward move.
Safe – Climber reached the top and indicating the climber is off the rope and on an anchor.
Off Belay – the belay has removed the climber from the rope.
Runner off – Prepare for a fall.
Below – indicates to anyone below loose rock is falling.
Rope Below – Rope is being thrown down.

Moves

Crimp – one finger in a grip whilst the other rest on the outer ledge.
Lock off – one hand in a grip so the other is free to move to another.
Latch – successful grip, a hold.
Fisting – locking off by using your entire fist in a large hole.
Slap – Hand came into contact with the hold but failed to latch on.
Match – bring both hands or both feet to the same hold.
Hand-foot Match – bringing your foot to a hand hold.
Crossover – Crossing arms or legs to reach an alternative hold.
Under-cling – A hold below the shoulder can be held from underneath, and by pulling up on the hold locking tension in your arm and increasing reach to a hold above.
Heel Hook – Used on overhangs taking the weight off the climbers arms, place the heel higher into a hold.
Step through – crossing feet in a traverse.
Rock on – Body weight shifted from one foot to another.
Flag – extending a leg to balance the body, keeping the body from swinging outwards.
Barn door – when the body swings out away from the wall.
Dyno – moving into a hold, the push creating momentum to the next hold, which might not have usually been able to be reached.
Hip roll – another way of keeping your centre of gravity to the wall.
Twist lock – similar to the method of an under-cling, by turning towards the locked off hold it will increase reach to the next hold.
Stem – keeping feet and hands outwards creates tension.

Routes

Arête – wall sticking out.
Big wall – a wall that will need to be multi-pitched.
Chimney – a gap wide enough to get your entire body through.
Crux – hardest move on the route.
Features – usually used when talking about indoor walls and hold which.
Jugs – deep holds.
Mono – a hold that you can only put one finger in.
Nubbins – small holds, ideal for feet but not big enough for hands.
Sloper – a difficult hold with little/no ledge to grip onto. Requires the climber to adjust their weight onto the hold to gain more friction.
Dihedral – two rock faces joined to form a long hold along a corner.
Beta – advice or instructions on how to tackle a route.
On-sight – a lead climb completed without falling, on a wall with no prior knowledge of the route.
Flash – On-sight and beta


Govern


British Mountain Guides

Mountain Leader training UK (England/Scotland/Wales)
http://www.mltuk.org/

British Mountaineering Council
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/

The Mountaineering Council Scotland
http://www.mcofs.org.uk/home.asp


Packing


Helmet
Rock boots
Walking shoes
Ropes
Climbing harness
Finger tape
Slings
Belay plates
Chalk bag
Windproof clothing
Warm jacket/jumper
Full set of waterproofs
Hat
Gloves
Map [1:50,000 scale as a minimum, 1:25,000 in more complex areas]
Compass
Whistle
Watch
Survival bag/first aid kit
Food/drink, energy foods and keep hydrated
Sun cream


Safety


Now, don’t let the following information put you off climbing before you have given it a go. Of course all adventure sports have a high element of risk, but ignoring the safety precautions for climbing is foolish. Learn and follow good safety practice, and climbing is as safe as any sport out there.

Before you go climbing outdoors it’s important someone else knows where you plan to climb - no different to going walking, and check the weather forecast too. Make sure you’re with someone who knows exactly how to use all the equipment and has plenty of experience. It’s also worth having someone with you that knows some basic first aid.

First, kit yourself out with the right safety gear (head gear and harness) then make sure all your equipment is in decent condition - check your rope, karabiners, belay device, nuts, wires, slings, cams etc.

Belaying - keep one hand holding the control rope down vertically.

Communication - use the correct calls to avoid mishearing instructions. Don’t climb until both the climber and the belayer are ready, paying their full attention. See section: Lingo

When bouldering (low level climbing without a rope): There should always be someone spotting in case their partner slips from the wall. Its good practice to have a mat below in the event the spotter doesn’t catch the climber in time. The climber should bear in mind the spotter will have difficulty doing their job if they climb too high.

When spotting: If the climber is vertical, grab their waist to keep them upright. Overhang falls should be caught under the armpits, so their feet will hit the mat.

Remember to always warm up, you don’t want to stretch or strain anything then not be able to climb for a few weeks - it doesn’t take long to get out of shape!


Holidays

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